Almancil

A parish town between Faro and Quarteira known principally for the baroque church of Sao Lourenco and its proximity to the Golden Triangle resorts.

Almancil is a roadside town on the EN125 between Faro and Quarteira that has grown substantially over the past four decades, driven largely by its proximity to the luxury resort areas of Quinta do Lago and Vale do Lobo. The town itself is functional rather than picturesque, with a busy main road lined with shops, restaurants, estate agents and service businesses catering to the affluent coastal strip to the south. It is the kind of place that visitors pass through rather than seek out, with one notable exception.

The outstanding reason to visit Almancil is the Igreja de Sao Lourenco dos Matos, widely regarded as one of the finest baroque churches in Portugal. The interior is covered floor to ceiling in blue and white azulejo tiles dating from 1730, depicting scenes from the life of St Lawrence with remarkable detail and artistic accomplishment. The tilework was executed by the master craftsman Policarpo de Oliveira Bernardes, one of the most celebrated azulejo painters of the Portuguese baroque, and the effect of the completely tiled interior is both overwhelming and beautiful. Every surface is covered, including the barrel-vaulted ceiling, creating a continuous narrative in blue and white that few other churches in the country can match. The church alone justifies a detour from the motorway.

Adjacent to the church, the Centro Cultural de Sao Lourenco operates as a gallery and cultural space, hosting exhibitions of contemporary art and occasional concerts in an attractive garden setting. The centre has been run since the 1980s and has built a strong reputation for the quality of its programming, attracting artists from across Europe. The sculpture garden is open to visitors and provides a pleasant contrast to the gallery spaces inside.

Almancil's commercial district serves the surrounding population with a full range of services including supermarkets, banks, medical facilities, a post office and a wide variety of shops. The restaurant scene is diverse, ranging from traditional Portuguese tascas serving grilled fish and regional stews to international cuisine reflecting the cosmopolitan character of the area. There is a regular outdoor market where farmers from the interior sell fruit, vegetables, cheese and honey.

The town sits at the junction of several important routes. Quinta do Lago and Vale do Lobo are roughly five kilometres to the south, reached via well-maintained roads. Faro airport is about 10 kilometres to the east, and the town is served by both the EN125 and the A22 motorway. This accessibility has made Almancil a practical residential base for those working in the tourism and service industries along the coast, and the town has a settled, year-round population that gives it more substance than many seasonal resort areas.

While Almancil lacks the charm of the Algarve's historic villages, it serves an essential function as the commercial hub of the Golden Triangle area. Visitors will find it useful for practical errands and should not miss the church of Sao Lourenco, which stands among the finest examples of azulejo art anywhere in Portugal. The church is open most mornings and the small entrance fee is well spent. A visit can easily be combined with a stop at the cultural centre next door and lunch at one of the town's many restaurants.