Alferce
A tiny mountain hamlet in the Serra de Monchique surrounded by eucalyptus forest and cork oak woodland.
Alferce is a small, quiet settlement in the Serra de Monchique, situated on a ridge roughly five kilometres north-east of the town of Monchique. The hamlet has a population of only a few hundred and consists of a cluster of houses around a small square with a parish church, a cafe and a community centre. There is no tourism infrastructure to speak of, and visitors are rare, which is precisely what gives Alferce its appeal for those who seek it out. The village represents the Algarve at its most hidden and unhurried, a world away from the coastal resorts.
The Igreja Matriz is a simple whitewashed building of no great architectural distinction, but it occupies a fine position on the ridge with views across the forested valleys. The churchyard terrace is one of the best vantage points in the settlement, offering a panorama of the Monchique range stretching north and west. On clear days the Atlantic is visible to the south-west, a blue line beyond the succession of green ridges.
The surrounding landscape is densely wooded, a mix of eucalyptus plantation, cork oak and native deciduous forest including chestnut, strawberry tree (medronheiro) and Portuguese oak. The eucalyptus, planted extensively for the paper industry, has become controversial for its impact on biodiversity and fire risk, but at Alferce it coexists with enough native woodland to maintain ecological interest. The medronheiro is economically significant in this area, its berries harvested in autumn to produce medronho, the fiery fruit brandy that is the traditional spirit of the Algarve mountains. Small-scale distillation continues in the farmsteads around Alferce, using copper pot stills that have been passed down through families, and the spirit is offered to visitors in the local cafe.
Walking is the principal reason to visit Alferce. The hamlet sits on or near several marked trails that explore the Monchique range, passing through woodland, along stream valleys and across open ridge tops with expansive views. The terrain is hilly and the paths can be rough in places, but the scenery is rewarding and the area is rich in birdlife, including short-toed eagles, Bonelli's eagles and great spotted woodpeckers. In spring the forest floor is carpeted with wildflowers, and the chestnut trees come into blossom in June, their creamy white flowers brightening the canopy.
The nearest services are in Monchique, which has a market, supermarkets, restaurants and a health centre. The road from Monchique to Alferce is narrow and winding but paved throughout. There is no public transport. Visitors typically arrive by car, often combining Alferce with a visit to Monchique town and the peak of Foia, which is the highest point in the Algarve at 902 metres and offers a panoramic view that on clear days extends across the entire width of the region.
The contrast with the coastal strip, barely 25 kilometres to the south, could hardly be more striking. Where the coast is built-up, busy and international, Alferce is wooded, quiet and thoroughly Portuguese. For walkers and those interested in traditional mountain life, the detour is well worthwhile.