Igreja de Santo Antonio Interior

Church

The Igreja de Santo Antonio in Lagos contains one of the most extraordinary Baroque interiors in Portugal. From the outside, the church is unremarkable, a plain whitewashed facade on a quiet street near the old town walls. Inside, virtually every surface is covered with talha dourada, the gilded woodcarving that represents the pinnacle of Portuguese Baroque decorative art.

The carvings date from the mid-eighteenth century and depict a profusion of angels, garlands, columns, shells, vines and religious scenes. The gold leaf that covers them was paid for with wealth from Brazil, and the sheer density of decoration creates an effect that is simultaneously overwhelming and exhilarating. Azulejo tile panels in blue and white line the lower walls, depicting scenes from the life of Saint Anthony, who tradition claims was born in Lisbon but is venerated with particular fervour throughout the Algarve.

The church survived the 1755 earthquake with relatively minor damage, which accounts for the exceptional state of preservation of the interior. Much of the gilding retains its original lustre, and the carved figures display a level of anatomical detail and emotional expression that marks them as the work of master craftsmen.

The church is accessed through the adjacent Museu Municipal de Lagos, which holds archaeological collections including Roman mosaics, medieval ceramics and ethnographic displays. The combined ticket provides access to both the museum and the church. The contrast between the plain exterior and the lavish interior is one of the great surprises of the Algarve, and visitors who pass the building without entering miss what is arguably the single most impressive artistic achievement in the region.