Praia do Carvalho
Cliff beach
Praia do Carvalho is a small, hidden cove reached through a hand-carved tunnel in the cliff, located on the coast between Benagil and Albandeira in the municipality of Lagoa. The approach gives little indication of what lies below: a dirt car park set back from the cliff edge, a path through low scrub and mastic bushes, and then the tunnel entrance, cut directly through the limestone and just wide enough for one person at a time. Emerging from the far end, a set of rough steps descends to a compact crescent of sand perhaps forty metres across, enclosed by high cliffs on three sides.
The sense of enclosure and discovery is the defining quality of Carvalho. The cliffs rise steeply, their faces pockmarked with small caves, alcoves and overhangs, and the only openings are the tunnel behind and the sea in front. At the eastern end of the beach, a natural arch frames a view of the next headland, and at very low tide it is possible to scramble around the rocks to an even smaller adjoining cove that is entirely cut off at higher water. The cliff faces display the characteristic Algarve palette of cream, gold and russet, intensified by the reflected light from the water, and in the middle of the day the sunlight bouncing between the rock walls and the sea surface creates an almost luminous glow.
The water is clear and calm in settled conditions, and snorkelling along the cliff base reveals an underwater landscape of boulders, crevices and small fish. The seabed is a mixture of sand and rock, and the depth increases relatively quickly compared to the larger beaches, reaching two or three metres within a few strokes of the shore. Ornate wrasse, several species of sea bream and small shoals of damselfish are common, and the rocky crevices harbour crabs, moray eels and the occasional octopus. There are no lifeguards and no facilities of any kind. The beach is entirely natural, with no beach bar, no toilets and no fresh water.
Visitors should be self-sufficient and aware that the tunnel is the only exit if the tide rises or the sea becomes rough. The cliff top above the beach is part of the coastal walking trail that connects the string of coves between Marinha and Albandeira, and the views from the edge are vertiginous, looking straight down into the cove and out along the coastline in both directions. In spring the cliff edges are bright with wild flowers, including sea lavender, thrift and the vivid yellow of hottentot fig, an introduced species that has colonised many of the Algarve cliffs.
Carvalho's small size means it can accommodate only a modest number of visitors, and in summer it fills quickly. Arriving before ten in the morning is advisable if you want space on the sand. Outside the main season it is often deserted, and the experience of emerging from the tunnel to find an empty cove with clear water and golden cliffs is one of the quiet rewards of the Algarve coast.